Pattern variation
Accentuating the pockets

Accentuated pockets are very much on trend with the return of the cargo pant. But I've never found this style of trouser very flattering, however an oversized pocket on outerwear is a different matter.

The recent torrential rain prompted me to make a new version of The Utility Coat. I bought this deep khaki waterproof fabric over a year ago from Cloth House and I've finally got round to using it.

To update the style I decided to make more of the pockets. I increased the size of the pocket bag pattern piece by 2cm to both width and height. Then increased the flap pattern piece by 2cm to the width and 1cm to the height. I decided to attach the pockets at an angle rather than square on. I tilted them to about a 30-degree angle.

As I was using stud fastenings I found it easier to attach these before putting the completed pockets on to my garment. To then position the pocket bag and flap correctly I placed them with the studs fastened together and marked the position of each piece before stitching in place.

I also added a fish tail back hem, a detail I have used with previous versions of this coat; I like the utilitarian feel of this detail at the moment.