Adding pockets to The Box Shirt

This variation of The Box Shirt is influenced by the on-going utility trend while remaining feminine in this pastel shade of lemon.

The sleeves have been slightly widened and two breast pockets with pocket flaps added. The fabric quantities remain the same as given on the pattern detail.

The fabric is a lightweight washed parachute silk. This requires some care when machine sewing. If you have a straight stitch presser foot, use it. It will help keep your fabric flat. Fine fabrics like this can have a tendency to be 'chewed' in the stitching process and pulled down in towards the bobbin case. Use a needle for fine fabrics and slightly shorten stitch length. Before you start test the stitch length and tension on off-cuts.

When it comes to stitching the buttonholes use 'Stitch and Tear' to minimise puckering. Place a strip under the buttonhole placket and remove after stitching.

Cutting out - To widen the cuff draw a gradual line either side of the pattern piece as shown above.

For the pockets cut 2 pairs for the pocket and the flap - dimensions as shown above.

Making the pockets - Take two pocket flaps and fold in half lengthways with the right sides of the fabric innermost. Stitch up one side along the top, but leaving a 6-7 cm gap in the middle and down the other side (1a). Turn your pocket flap the right way out, through the gap you left (1b) and press.

Now take the other two rectangles turn and press over the top edges by 0.5cm then a further 1cm.

To make sure your pockets are matching, place the two rectangles right sides together and with a long machine stitch, stitch along the 1cm seam allowance. Trim and clip the seam allowance at the corners, turn right side out and press. Then separate the two pocket pieces by removing the stitching.

The rectangles are ready to stitch to the garment fronts. *Position the pocket bags onto your garment. Pin the three edges that need stitching, then stitch to your garment as close to the edge of the pocket as possible. Take the pocket flaps and place with the open edge nearest the pocket and stitch along this line (1d). Now fold the flap over the pocket bag and press (1e). If necessary, run another line of stitching along the top of the flap.

*As there are no markings for the pocket position on the Box Shirt pattern Make up the shirt as instructed in the pattern, adding the pockets at the end.