5th August 2020
Behind the design
Designing The Pleat Detail Dress
With The Pleat Detail Dress I wanted to create a flattering easy-to-wear shape suitable for woven fabrics.
My starting point for the design was the simplicity of a grown on sleeve, similar to the sleeve and shoulder line of The Shell Dress and Top, but reworked for non-stretch materials. I also like the idea that removing the shoulder seam the style works for both narrow and broader shoulders. From the shoulder I then wanted to create an almost cocoon type shape with the addition of a central pleat at the front and back. The side seams in fact hardly tapper from underarm to hem.
The position of where the pleat starts is 1cm lower than the fullest part of the bust on a B cup. To adjust the height of where the pleat starts read this Journal post. I realised when making the development toiles for this style that a top would also be very flattering. The body shape would appear flared rather than cocoon as the finish point on the body is at upper hip level.
The length of the dress, just below the knee, is determined by the ability to walk comfortably. To lengthen the dress would either mean increasing the depth of the pleat or adding a slit to the centre back - both options are possible but alter the simple lines of the dress.
It is possible to extend the length of the sleeves but by how much is determined by the width of the fabric - read more here. Both the dress and top suit a variety of fabrics from linens and lighter weight denims to wools and needle cord.