Perfecting the fit of your Maxi Skirt

As we get older our shapes change, often with some thickening around the waist or the behind has dropped and is flatter than it used to be. So the redistribution of weight maybe at the front, back or sides of the body. Here are some suggestions for altering the pattern to accommodate this.

On The Maxi Skirt there is a lot of detail at the waist/hip height with pockets at the front and back and a centre front fly, that need to be taken into consideration.

Above the pattern detail shows the size and the finished garment measurements. As an example, highlighted are the measurements if your waist corresponds to the size 16, but the hips are a size 12. Start with the correct hip size and make the alterations to waist.

If your behind is flatter you could omit the back darts (1) this would add an additional 7-8cm to the waistline. If that is too extreme try replacing the two darts with one, placed centrally to the two pattern darts in the pattern. The result would be 3.5-4cm added to the waist. In both instances reposition the back pockets centrally between the pocket points.

The side seam on The Maxi Skirt is set forward and includes the front pockets. To add some ease here, trace off the skirt back pattern piece and draw a new line starting at the waist but 1cm across from your size, keep a slight curve and tapper to nothing by the lower side notch as shown (2). Trace this amendment onto the front and pocket pieces too. In this was 4cm is added to the overall waist. 

The third possibility may suit you if you have more weight at the front. Trace off the front pattern piece and draw a vertical line from the waist to the hem. Cut down the line to just before the bottom and then pivot the two sides out by 1-1.5cm (3) Slip another piece of paper behind and stick the pieces down, draw in the waist line and even the hem. Redraw the Grain line so that it is parallel with the centre front line of the skirt. This would add a total of 2-3cm to the waist. 

Depending on where your weight is distributed you can combine two or three of the suggestions above adding or decreasing the amount of alteration. 

If your waist is proportionally smaller than the pattern for your hip size, again choose the correct hip measurement – shown here as a size 22. Make a simple toile of the top section of the skirt by placing pocket bag B over the front, lining up the notches (4). Tack the back darts, the side seams and the front below the fly. Slip the toile on inside out and pinch out the excess – maybe increasing the darts, taking out fabric along the side seam or you may wish to introduce a third dart on the front. Transfer any alterations to the pattern pieces including the pocket pieces if necessary.

Hopefully these suggestions will help you to perfect the fit of your Maxi Skirt.