Its always tricky getting the right fit for your trousers, especially if your waist and hip measurements don’t exactly match the size chart.
Here’s my tip if your waist is one size bigger than your hip; for example your waist measures 31” (size 14) and your hips 39” (size 12).
Select the sewing pattern size that corresponds to your hip measurement. To allow for the larger waist, ignore the back waist darts as follows: on your sewing pattern fold back the dart ‘peak’ and create a curved line as shown in red (Illustration A). Add 2cm to the waistband length. Now make up your trouser as instructed, ignoring the back dart step.
Here’s another variation for the Wide-Legged Trouser that I find ‘slims’ me down – especially useful after Christmas! I designed the Wide-Legged Trouser with pockets because it feels right to have pockets. I also gave them a flat front because tucks and pleats add bulk. However if I remove the pockets I think it gives a much smoother effect altogether. To replicate this when you are placing your sewing pattern pieces on your fabric, place the pocket piece over the front as shown (illustration B). Cut as one and make up ignoring the pocket section in your instruction sheet.