10th August 2022
The Seam Detail Dress
The design for the Seam Detail Dress was the result of a conversation at The Knitting & Stitch Show at Alexandra Palace. A lady had come onto our stand with a group of her friends who were all dressmakers, she however only made curtains and cushions. She said she could only sew in a straight line but if I managed to design a dress made with only straight lines and including pockets, she’d have a go! That’s quite a challenge but The Seam Detail Dress is the result.
However, there are some curves, around the neck and a slight curve to the sleeve head but as this is sewn on the flat (the sleeve isn’t inserted) the making process is easier. It is a pull-on style with no zips, buttonholes or darts and is very simple to make.
The front and back are each made with four pieces, these are angled so that the neck sits flat and doesn’t gape and the dress tappers from the hip seam. The front pieces also have pocket bag extensions so that the pockets are made at the same time as the seam. The sleeves are bracelet length and finished with a simple turned back cuff.
The simplicity of this style means that the pattern suits a great variety of woven fabrics from fluid silks and viscose cloths to corduroys or lightweight wools.
The easiest fabrics to use for first time sewers are cotton or linen dress weight or lightweight denim fabrics – the crispness of the cloth helps with the general construction especially the pockets.
The Seam Detail Dress suits patterned or plain fabrics although pattern matching can be tricky with the angled pieces. I would suggest ditsy florals where pattern matching isn’t noticeable or oversized prints that are placed rather than matched. This striking black and white spot and stripe fabric is from M Rosenberg and Son.
Alternatively try alternating two stripe widths or using the grain in two directions as in this Journal post.
Adding topstitching to plainer fabric options highlights the seam detailing.