Sometimes the most extraordinary things happen. Last July, Grace from Beyond Measure, forwarded an Instagram post by @kerukism
I couldn't quite believe what I was looking at. I've seen hand stitching before but nothing quite as detailed as this. I realised that the person behind the images was creating a bespoke suit, completely with hand stitches, no machines at all.
I started following @kerukism and eventually my curiosity got the better of me. I thought that one day I'd like to feature the maker behind the stitching and so I messaged him. I had ascertained from the images and hash tags that there was an Italian connection but comments were in English and Japanese. It turned out that Roberto or @kerukism is an Italian translator living in Japan.
Later that summer I watched him create a pair of jeans for his holiday - home to Italy. I already had in mind that we would be producing a denim themed magazine and here was a great opportunity to include him and his work. I sent him a set of questions and waited for his response.
Then a month later he suggested he make a pair to be featured in the magazine. He would send denim samples for selection and I would send a basic block on which he could overlay his 'five-pocket' jeans styling.
The fabric samples arrived, beautifully hand stitched to a piece of card. Why did I expect anything less? There were three to choose from; 12, 13.5 and 14 ounce Japanese selvedge denim. After conferring with Roberto I chose the 12 ounce and he set to work. He created a second feed on Instagram dedicated to the jeans he creates - @kerukjeans . Here he recorded his progress with daily posts. It was fascinating to watch.
Where the back yoke meets is the thickest part. Roberto had asked if this could be offset or not but I really wanted this to be symmetrical although I realised it would be a difficult task.
Here the selvedge has been used for the fifth pocket - the perfect detail.
Attaching the belt loops
The first of the five buttonholes at the front fly opening
The back of each jeans button has a disk of the finest glove leather.
The finished jeans arrived - they are a work of art.
All images are from @kerukjeans Read the fascinating and inspiring interview with Roberto in the Summer'19 issue of the magazine