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Make more with your patterns - The Cigarette Pant
27th January 2019

 

Ski pants are great for lounging around in as much as wearing to an exercise class. The ski pant featured in the Spring 19 magazine is a version of the Cigarette Pant from The Essential Collection Book.

The correct fabric choice is crucial for a good fitting ski pant. Look for a four way stretch or medium weight jersey construction with Lycra or elastane content. The higher the Lycra content the better the fabric will keep its shape and not bag at the seat or knee area. Ideally 5% -8% lycra but give the fabric a 'pull' and see how much stretch /rebound there is, every fabric is different.

Due to the higher stretch and for added comfort I omit the zip fastener and facing. I fold the pattern paper at the back dart, this isn't needed with the added stretch and I make a simple elasticated waist.

I like to keep the pin-tuck seam detail from the book, down the front of each leg. As there is greater stretch, when I sew the pin-tuck, I apply more tension on the fabric as I feed it through. This creates a wavy fabric finish but once it is steamed with an iron the fabric flattens. If this tension isn't applied, the thread will break when the trousers are worn.

Take your pattern pieces and 'shave' the lower leg down as shown. The circumference at the ankle needs to be about 25cm. This slims the trouser down but is not as tight as leggings, so far more flattering when worn.

The leg length will also need to be shortened. All fabrics are different and for a ski pant 'stretch' is part of the fit, so be prepared for altering as you make. I make the trouser 10cm shorter then alter further once I have tried them on.

I finish the trousers with a straight hem and attach the elastic foot strap across from side seam to inside leg seam. The length of the strap is variable depending again on the stretch but as a guide I buy half a metre - each strap is approximately 20cm. The leg could be finished with a curved hem instead; this would then require slightly less elastic.

The ski pants look great paired with a jersey version of the Utility Coat and the Boxy T.shirt from the Spring 18 magazine.

All images by Emma Croman