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Make more with your patterns - The Ultimate Pencil Skirt
31st March 2017

I often find stretch woven fabrics that only have about 3% Lycra or Elastane in. This is enough to keep the elasticated waist but not enough to walk in!

So here are two simple solutions to get around that problem.

For the floral, glazed cotton skirt, I have added a kick pleat from the rigid pattern.

Cut the front as for the stretch skirt, then for the back, fold your stretch pattern piece in half and lay the back of the woven version on top so that you add the kick pleat and 1cm seam allowance. Ignore the zip etc. So your new back shape will look like the one above.

Cut two and follow the instructions for creating the kick pleat and instead of inserting the zip continue the back seam up to the waist.

Now stitch front and back together and finish your skirt as instructed in the stretch version.

For the denim skirt I decided upon an inverted pleat. To create this make a similar back pattern as before but place the pleat section on the fold.

Stitch down from the waist to the stitch point at the top of the pleat. Then tack or baste from that point to the hem.

Open out the back and press the seam open and the pleat flat. Stitch across the top of the pleat to secure, and then remove your tacking stitches.

Complete your skirt as instructed in the stretch version.

Fabric for both skirts were from Ditto