At our recent Sewing Retreat different versions of The Utility Jacket were made and this highlighted various tricky areas and also where to alter the sleeve length.
First up is the yoke. This is created with two layers both cut on the cross or bias. The reason to do this is that the yoke then forms around the shoulder giving a more comfortable fit. But the downside is that some more loosely woven fabrics are easy to pull out of shape on the bias. If you find this is happening to your fabric take extra time and baste the seams before machine stitching so the yoke to holds its shape. If you find the yoke is at all twisted, unpick and start again as you will regret it later, your jacket will never sit well.
When joining the centre front panel to the yolk, pin from the side seam out towards the front.
The facing is integral to the centre front piece and this is stitched to the under yoke. The same happens when you attach the hem cuff.
To shorten or lengthen the sleeve, split the difference equally between the sleeve pieces and the cuff depth. In this way you will keep the proportion of cuff to sleeve.
Make the adjustment on the sleeve pieces above the placket as shown above.
When joining the cuff to the sleeve, line up the side seam of the cuff, with the placket edge, at both cuff ends then pin the rest of the cuff.