The clean lines of this Utility Jacket capture this season's smarter casual mood.
Details include deep cuffs and hem with integrated pockets. The back is subtly shaped with the slide adjusters.
Fastenings here are hidden however that is optional and classic button or stud fastenings would also work.
Medium weight wovens including denim, linen, canvas and cotton drill. Lighter weight wool flannels and suitings.
The denim jacket in the image has 3 x 25mm snaps to fasten the front and 2 x 15mm on the sleeves.
The adjustable strap dimensions in the pattern are for a 30mm slide adjuster. But the straps can be altered to suit other sizes.
The causal and yet very stylish Utility Jacket is a dream to sew and looks fantastic on! I wanted to make it as soon as I saw the release. Thinking that my first jacket would be linen (I plan to make several) I made a 180 degree about face when I spotted a reasonably stable technical coated knit fabric that excited me.
I decided to underline the body/sleeve portion of the jacket with cotton shirting for more comfort as I suspected 100% polyester content with my fashion fabric.
I choose my high bust measurement for the pattern size and opted for a full bust adjustment (FBA) to accommodate a D cup, guessing that the pattern was likely drafted for a B cup. The resulting fit is perfect!
I am very impressed with the bias-cut front/back upper bodice. It gives a nice smooth shape over the shoulders…just as Frances says it does! The pattern is very well drafted. I cut the size 20 and all the pieces fit together with precision, which is a hug relief even for an experienced sewer. The collar application is a breeze and behaves very well with no interfacing. I found some of the instructions to be a bit confusing but was pleased to receive a copy containing more clarity after attending a workshop with other Makers Atelier enthusiasts! Measurements provided to cut the adjustable straps resulted in a perfect fit inside my 1-inch slide buckle and once adjusted on the jacket looked exactly how I thought it should look. Another happy moment!
The sleeves add lots of elegance to elevate this jacket from its more casual cousin, the jean jacket. They are elongated, ending in an extended cuff that can be closed slightly with a snap or left open to hang in a lovely modest bell shape. Using snaps for the front closure also preserves the clean lines of the design and adds a timeless style factor, in my opinion. I used 21mm large black snaps. Smaller snaps would also work and may suit a thinner fabric.
The final finished length is flattering with the construction method of the bottom band adding enough body to hang smoothly and well. I LOVE this jacket and highly recommend it as a staple piece for any wardrobe. The design lends itself to many fabric choices beyond denim and linen. Give it a whirl!
I have just successfully completed your jacket in a fairly heavy washed linen. Instead of poppers I used some large mother of pearl buttons and mother of pearl buckles. i am very pleased with it. As always your patterns work!
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