Pattern variation
A gathered back detail

I’ve been experimenting with all sorts of gathers and its inspired this great update for The Oversized Shirt Dress. I’ve taken the short-sleeved version of the dress and added elasticated cuffs and a centre back detail. To achieve this I’ve widened and shortened the sleeve cuff and straightened the side seams. The elasticated back detail is slightly higher than the natural waist line.            To recreate this garment, you will need to add 1m of 26mm elastic to the materials stated on the sewing pattern. Here’s how to do it….

First of all you will need to alter the following sewing pattern pieces – The sleeve is widened at the cuff to 38cm and shortened by 5cm. The side seams for both front and back are straightened by drawing a line from the underarm point to the edge of the slit detail. Finally for the elasticated detail on the back you will need to cut a piece of fabric 22cm x 5cm to form the casing for the elastic. Also mark the position for the casing on the back piece of your dress. Slip a stitch through two points 35cm down from the centre back neck and 20cm apart as marked by the X above.

When making up your dress start with the back detail. Take the 22cm x 5cm strip of fabric and turn then press over all four edges by 1cm. Stitch down the two ends. On the wrong side of your dress back, position the strip with the right side upwards at the two marked points. Stitch along the upper edge taking a minimal seam allowance. Do the same on the bottom edge. Take your 1m of elastic and draw a pencil line 12 cm from one end. Take this end and feed it through the casing using a safety pin to push it through. Once the end is through, remove the safety pin and gently pull the elastic back so the end of the elastic is in line with the end of the casing, pin in place. Using a zigzag stitch, secure your elastic in place and close that end of the casing at the same time. Pull the other end of the elastic, through the casing, gathering up the back as you go, until the pencil line is in line with this end of the casing – pin in place. Again zigzag stitch through the casing end and the elastic. Trim off the elastic. The remaining elastic will be used for the sleeve cuffs.

Make up your dress as instructed in the pattern, omitting the side splits. When it comes to cuff section of the sleeves, press back your sleeve by 1cm. Measure your bicep and cut two pieces of elastic 2cm longer than this measurement. Make two elastic bands by overlapping your elastic by 1.5cm and stitching down. Place an elastic band over each cuff, turn up the cuff over the band and stitch the cuff down, encasing the elastic band. Finish the rest of your dress as shown in the instructions.