A Long-line Cagoule

Cloth House have introduced a new line of waterproof fabrics to their bonded and coated cottons range and they very kindly sent me a couple of examples to try out.

When I saw this green fabric I was drawn to the cotton twill side in moss green - although either face of the fabric could work. I decided to make a long-line cagoule by adapting The Hooded Overshirt pattern.

The style of the garment I wanted to create was an outerwear piece for country walks, whatever the weather. I thought a large central pocket would be useful to hold a phone or map if needed.

I decided the finished dimensions of pocket with flap should be 24cm wide x 30cm. For the pocket I cut a rectangle 34cm x 26cm; this I turned the edges by 1cm on three sides and 3cm on the top edge.

For the flap I cut a rectangle 16cm x 26cm, I folded this in half with the right sides together, stitched around the three open sides taking just less than 1cm, leaving a small gap half way to be able to turn the flap through. Once turned, I pressed and stitched along the open edge. I used Velcro as a fastening for both the pocket and placket opening. I attached Velcro rectangles for the pocket and flap before attaching to the garment front.

Before starting on the front placket I decided on the pocket placement, I choose 22cm from side neck but this measurement could be altered to suit. I shortened the placket as it is hidden by the pocket, amending the length of the placket pattern piece to 20cm. When making the placket I did not turn the bottom of the placket under, as the pocket hides this and it would create unnecessary bulk.

I underlined the hood with a co-ordinating jersey fabric which would feel nicer than the waterproof coating on one’s head.

I omitted the bellows pockets in the pattern and added in-seam pockets to each side seam; this would make the style of the garment cleaner.

The finished garment is a stylish functional piece of outerwear and a great addition for my weekend wardrobe.

The Cloth House fabric can be ordered HERE