Pattern variation
The Summer Sports Coat

This summer I've had a real passion for khaki that I know will continue into autumn. So in preparation for cooler evenings I've added a version of The Sports Coat to my khaki wardrobe. I wanted a lightweight coat that had a sophisticated utilitarian feel. The neck of the Sports Coat has a bomber style collar however I have left this off and created a lower round neck to my coat.

This spongy fabric would be too bulky to turn the edges so all my coat pieces have been overlocked. I like the functionality of the overlocking on the inside with the twin needle stitching that I've used on the outside of my garment.

To create the lower round neck that I want I have added a facing. This is quite simple to do - I took my front and back pattern pieces and traced off the original neckline and created a facing band 6cm in depth. On the Sports Coat the front facing is integrated into the front pattern piece - I omitted the turn back of the front facing and added 1cm seam allowance.

Once you have cut out all your garment pieces, stitch together the shoulder seams of the front and back coat and then the shoulder seams of the facing pieces. Press the seams open. Then with right sides together stitch front edge of the facing to the front edge of the coat, press the seam open. Pin the neck of the facing to the neck of the coat. Start by matching the shoulder seams then work round to the front - the front facing will fold round. Stitch the neck taking a 0.5cm seam allowance. Turn through and press. I completed the rest of my coat as instructed, adding the twin-needle stitching throughout. The coat is finished with brass stud fastenings

Did you know that khaki means 'dust-coloured' in Urdu and was developed by the British military in the 1840s as camouflage in desert landscapes. Khaki is now commonly used to describe a spectrum of different shades, from yellowish beige to deep olive green.