Pattern variation
Adding a kick pleat to the Stretch Pencil Skirt

I often find stretch woven fabrics that only have about 3% Lycra or Elastane in. This is enough to keep the elasticated waist detail for a pull-on skirt but not enough to walk in!

So here are two simple solutions to get around that problem. For the floral, glazed cotton skirt, I have added a kick pleat. I used the pleat section from the woven skirt pattern piece. See illustration A

Cut the front as for the stretch skirt. For the back, trace half of the stretch pattern piece, add a 1cm seam allowance to the centre back line and trace the pleat from the woven skirt pattern piece. Cut the two back pieces. Follow the instructions for creating the kick pleat and instead of inserting the zip continue the back seam up to the waist. Now stitch front and back together and finish your skirt as instructed in the stretch version.

For the denim skirt I decided upon an inverted pleat. To create this make a similar back pattern as before but place the pleat section on the fold. See illustration B Cut the back out, with right sides together; stitch down from the waist to the stitch point at the top of the pleat. Then continue stitch from there to the hem with a tacking stitch. Open out the back and press the seam open and the pleat flat. Stitch across the top of the pleat to secure, and then remove your tacking stitches. Complete your skirt as instructed in the stretch version.