Adding an inverted pleat

While sorting out my fabrics, I came across a piece of linen just the right weight and length for an unlined summer skirt.

I decided upon the Ultimate Pencil Skirt with a couple of variations; an inverted pleat and a slightly longer length.

On the pattern I lengthened the front and back pattern pieces by 15cm - I kept the hem circumference the same so slightly altered the angle of the side seam.

For the inverted pleat I extended the pleat section at the back by 8cm and drew a straight line to stitch point. I placed this new back piece on the fold so that there was no seam to interfere with the pleat.

I replaced the ordinary zip with an invisible zip, this I inserted first. Then stitched down to the point 1cm below the top of the pleat. I then tacked from that point straight down to the hem.

Then pressed the pleat flat, matching the centre point with the tacking line. 

I then stitched across the top of the pleat to secure and then removed the tacking stitches and completed the skirt.

The pleat has plenty of depth to allow for easy movement despite the longer length.

The finished skirt will get lots of wear once summer arrives, the longer length and inverted pleat are more flattering with bare legs.