Behind the design of The Classic Trouser

My inspiration for this trouser was a classic flat-front chino; a style that can be worn year round, for a smart casual look.

I wanted to ‘feminize it’ slightly from a man’s chino style. So as with The Utility Pant and Skirt and The Maxi Skirt, I decided to swing the side seam forward slightly. It means that the pockets sit better against the body and it flatters the silhouette more.

By moving this seam some of the curve into the waistband is removed. To counteract this I added a second set of darts to the back, distributing the fabric shaping more evenly around the body.

The top section of the trousers are smooth to the body graduating to a slim, but not too fitted, trouser leg. There is enough ease around the seat area for a comfortable fit when seated as well as standing.

From the test toiles, I realised this silhouette would also work as a side zipped, more formal or eveningwear trouser. For this style I added facings in place of the waistband.

Either style works well in most non-stretch woven fabrics.

The fly front style suits cottons, linens, denim, canvas and twill constructions.

While the side zipped version looks elegant in crepe constructions or dressier taffeta type fabrics.

It is always really tricky getting the perfect fit in trousers so next year's annual Maker's Atelier Sewing Retreat is all about perfecting the fit using The Classic Trouser pattern. Read more about the retreat HERE.

Even if you don't come on our retreat, remember it is always best to make a toile to perfect the pattern for your particular shape, before cutting in to an irreplaceable length of fabric.