Pattern variation
Binding edges and adding a belt.

When I saw this gorgeous fabric from Rosenberg and Sons I knew I had to have some! The drape of this brushed wool, cashmere and rayon mix would be perfect for The Shawl Collar Coat tied with a simple wrap belt.

I decided to lengthen the coat from the original pattern length and added an additional 20 cm to front, back and front facings; 5cm of this would be lost once hemmed. I added 5cm to the sleeve length to allow for the hem on the cuff. I also added in seam pockets rather than the patch pockets from the original pattern.

As I knew this fabric would fray I bound the edges as I went with American rayon seam binding from Crafty Ribbons. I simply iron the seam binding in half and sandwich the fabric edge in the folded ribbon and machine stitch in place. However I found that on the curve of the pockets I needed to hand stitch the seam binding in place first. This form of seam binding gives a lovely finish to an unlined coat.

The tie belt is simply a strip 220 cm long x 10cm wide. Take the strip and with the right sides of your fabric folded together, stitch the full length leaving a 10 cm gap at the mid point to be able to turn the right way out later. Press the seam allowance open and then stitch the two ends closed with the seam in the middle. Turn your belt through (I used a narrow ruler to push the ends through) and then hand stitch the opening closed. I added two loops at the side seam to hold the belt - these are simply a coordinating cord that I threaded through and knotted in place on the inside. The finished Coat is wonderfully warm and the added length works well with the belt.

An additional 50 cm of fabric was required to cover the extra length.