16th December 2020
Pattern variation
Shawl Collar Dressing Gown
The Shawl Collar Coat is the perfect shape for a deluxe dressing gown. The dressing gown shown here is made in a viscose fabric that has a wonderful drape. Cotton would also work especially in summer or brushed cotton for winter.
This ribbon-trimmed variation requires 1.2 metres of 6mm wide ribbon, a dressing gown cord and an additional 50cm to the fabric quantities given in the pattern detail.
The original Shawl Collar Coat was designed for raw-edges. To create the longer dressing gown with hem and cuffs as shown make the following pattern adjustments: When laying out the pattern pieces on the fabric, chalk an additional 8cm to the length of the front and back pieces. Add 10 cm to the sleeve length and finally increase the depth of the pocket to allow for an 8cm turnover. To hold the dressing gown cord in place create two self-fabric rouleau loops - 6cm long or 3cm folded.
As instructed in the pattern, start with the pockets. Turn the top of the pocket over by 8cm, right side to right side. Taking a 1cm seam allowance, stitch down on one side only - the left side on one pocket and the right on the other. Turn through, press the pocket flap and the remaining edge of the stitched side over by 1cm and the hem up by 1cm. The edge that hasn't been stitched or pressed will be stitched into the side seam. Stitch the flap down. Attach a strip of ribbon over this stitch line, turning the end at the folded edge so that when the pocket is attached to the gown front the ribbon end is neatly hidden inside the pocket. Once the pocket is attached at the front, attach the folded rouleau loops 3cm above the top of the pockets.
Complete the coat as instructed except for Step 5, the sleeves. Before the sleeves are inserted into the armhole. Turn the sleeve cuff up by 10cm. Starting at the shorter underarm seam, place the ribbon over the stitched cuff line, pin all the way around the sleeve and trim the ribbon 1cm over the cuff circumference, turn the end over by 0.5cm before stitching in place around both edges of the ribbon.