Pattern variation
Updating the neckline

As we are all spending a lot more time in casual/ sportswear style clothing, I decided to try a new version of The Sport-Luxe Bomber.

Here I've pared it back omitting the neck trim and removing the centre back seam. In place of the neck trim, a simple bias binding is used to finish the neckline.

For the hem and cuffs I opted for a simple elasticated finish. To do this extend the sleeve and body length by 2 x the width of elastic. For this garment the elastic is 3cm wide so the pattern was extended by 6cm. 

However if you are adding an open-ended zip as shown here the CF measurement is dependent on the zip measurement, choose - either 45cm (18") or 50cm (20"). The CF measurement = the zip length + 1 x elastic hem width, 1cm for the neck seam allowance, 1cm for the hem seam allowance. For this garment the CF measurement = 50cm as the zip is 45cm and the elastic 3cm.

To make up the cuffs simply make two elastic bands that fit comfortably over the wrist. Turn the sleeve inside out, turn back the cuff edge by 0.75 cm and press. Place an elastic band over each cuff and fold the cuff over to cover the elastic. Pin in place then stitch the cuff in place taking care not to stitch through the elastic.

At the centre front, fold back the front edge by 2cm and press.  Position the metal end of the zip 1cm from the top of the front - the zipper tape will be longer and over hang at the neck edge . Stitch the zipper in place. At the hem fold the edge up by 0.75cm and press. Cut a length of elastic that comfortably sits on the upper hip. On the wrong side of the jacket, stitch one end of the elastic just next to the zip, in line with the end of the metal zipper - make sure the zipper can still be fastened. Attach the other end to the other side of the zipper. Fold up the hem of the jacket to cover the elastic. Carefully stitch in place taking care not to stitch through the elastic and making sure the zipper can still work.

The jacket still retains a sportiness but is slightly more feminine and feels totally updated.