Pattern variation
Utility Coat in Jersey

For a versatile and easy to wear garment try The Utility Coat re-worked in Jersey. The version shown here is in a viscose / elastane double jersey or ponte type fabric.

I decided on the round-necked version with the neckband in the same fabric as the body: the elastane content means it will hold its shape. The changes I made to the original pattern are as follows:

The Collar: I doubled the depth of the collar, as I wanted it to sit higher in this version or to be able to fold the collar down. To do this I altered the collar pattern piece as shown in the illustration left.

The Drawstring Waist: Instead of the drawstring detailing at the waist I chose elastic for the gathering. As this fabric won't fray, I cut a strip of self-fabric to form the casing for the waist instead of using tape and I omitted the drawstring buttonhole.

The Pockets: I added in-seam pockets and omitted the patch pockets on the front.

When it came to the construction I folded back of the front facing in line with the end of the collar rather than where indicated.

Finally instead of buttons and buttonholes I used metal stud fastenings, placing two at the waist. It is a good idea to strengthen the fabric for the studs - either use a square of interfacing or woven cotton fabric. Placed each square between the front and facing so it is not visible.

The finished jacket is great for everyday wear as well as going to the gym.