Hints and Tips for The Atelier Shirt

The Placket:

The front placket is constructed by folding the front edge over, exposing the wrong side of the fabric. This is not a problem with most shirting fabrics. However if a printed fabric or a material with an obvious right and wrong side are used, simply fold the fabric to the inside to create the placket.

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The Sleeve Length:

This is measured from the side neck, as the yoke extends beyond the shoulder. To find your ideal sleeve length measure an existing top from the side neck and compare with the measurements on the pattern detail.

To Shorten or Lengthen the Sleeve:

Draw a line at the midpoint between the underarm and the sleeve notch (A). To lengthen: trace the top and bottom sections, leaving a gap for the additional length. Redraw the sleeve line as shown(B). To Shorten do the reverse as shown in (C) and (D).

All three options of The Atelier Shirt have straight hems however its possible to add shirt tails by altering the pattern as follows: On the front and back pattern pieces, redraw the hem as shown above. Before hemming the shirt, run a tacking stitch around each curve and slightly gather. This makes it easier to turn the hem around the curves. Then stitch the hems in place.

Alternatively, take a strip of bias binding, place 1cm above the indent on the right side of the fabric (1). Open out one edge and stitch in place 1cm from the end following the curve (2). Press over to the wrong side and stitch in place again 1cm from the end (3). Stitch the side seam down to the indentation, keeping the end of bias binding out of the way. Now press the seam allowance open to cover the ends of the bias binding and stitch across the top several times to secure.

Preserving the Pleats:

Before washing the pleat back version of The Atelier Shirt, run a line of tacking stitches along the hem to keep the pleats in place. Then wash, dry and press before removing the tacking stitches.

There is three times as much fabric in the pleated back than in the front. So if you find the weight of all the pleats are dragging the shirt back, try adding a small weight hidden in the bottom of the front placket - this could be a small curtain weight or similar.